Mountain Qualifications
If you're hiring the services of a mountain professional it's important to know they are qualified and they hold the relevant experience. You don't need to be qualified in the UK to lead people in the outdoors but you do need insurance which is incredibly hard to obtain if you don't hold qualifications. Always check the qualifications and experience of the person you're hiring before handing over your hard-earned money.
Rock Climbing Instructors (RCI formerly SPA)
Rock climbing session at single-pitch and non-tidal crags in the UK. This award is for top and bottom roping only and does not cover lead climbing instruction. Routes must be described as single pitch in the guide book and not multi-pitch or access affected by the tide. RCI's will also work at indoor climbing walls under the same scope as outdoor work.
Rock Climbing Development Instructor (RCDI)
Same as RCI (Above) but they can teach lead climbing at single-pitch, non-tidal crags or indoors. RCDI does not cover instructing on multi-pitch crags or tidal sea cliffs.
Mountain Leader (ML) and International Mountain Leader (IML)
Lead walks in the hills and mountains where a rope is not required. Some leaders with a good level of experience can lead people along grade 1 scrambles like Tryfan North Ridge, Striding Edge etc but they must have extensive experience of the route and solid scrambling experience. It is NOT within the scope of this award to use a rope in any situation unless to avoid or during an emergency.
An International Mountain Leader would also be qualified to lead people on popular treks in the Alps and the greater ranges.
Winter Mountain Leader (WML)
Same as Mountain Leader but they can also lead mountain walks in winter conditions with an axe and crampons. This award does not include roped climbing, winter mountaineering or any ice climbing.
Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (MCI)
Walking, scrambling, mountaineering and climbing in a range of environments from the sea cliff to mountain crags. A Mountaineering Instructor is qualified to guide and instruct all aspects of climbing and mountaineering in non-winter conditions (No axe and crampons). They can work on multi-pitch crags, sea cliffs and are often found working in places like the Cullin Ridge and sea stacks. Some MCI's will also work as technical advisors for outdoor centres, climbing walls and film and safety work
Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (WMCI)
All the same as an MCI but they can do it in full winter conditions with an axe and crampons. Some WMCI trainees can work with clients under the mentorship and supervision of a qualified WMCI. Some WMCI's will also work as technical advisors for outdoor centres, climbing walls and film and safety work.
British Mountain Guide (BMG/IFMGA)
The highest qualification in Europe and allows those that hold it to instruct and guide on all types of terrain from sea cliffs and mountain crags to glaciated routes, alpine objectives and ski tours. Guides normally climb or ski at a very high level and as such are often found living in places like Chamonix where they are not far from a ski lift or coffee shop.
Professional Memberships
Many qualified instructors also belong to professional associations like the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) or British Mountain Guides Association (BMG), hiring anybody with these associations ensures they are qualified and also conduct regular CPD, look for the logo!
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